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Writer's pictureMary Reed

Wednesday, March 3, 2021 – South Dakota


I see a South Dakota license plate on a car. It is a rare sight this far south. I have not been to South Dakota, but I do know it probably has a very cold climate. Cold-weather states are not my favorite to visit, although I love a beautiful snowy scene through a picture window while I am inside by the fire sipping a hot toddy. I have been skiing a few times but am more of a beach person. I also know that Mount Rushmore is in South Dakota. Seeing it would make the trip worthwhile — in the summer. Did you notice the license plate says, “Great Faces, Great Places?” What a great travel tagline for a state. Really makes you want to go there. Let’s explore.

According to Wikipedia, South Dakota is a U.S. state in the Upper Midwest region of the United States. It is named after the Lakota and Dakota Sioux Native American tribes, who comprise a large portion of the population and historically dominated the territory. South Dakota is the 17th largest by area, but the fifth least populous and the fifth least densely populated of the 50 United States. As the southern part of the former Dakota Territory, South Dakota became a state on November 2, 1889, simultaneously with North Dakota. It is either the 39th or 40th state admitted to the union. President Benjamin Harrison shuffled the statehood papers before signing them so that no one could tell which became a state first. Pierre is the state capital and Sioux Falls — with a population of about 187,200 — is South Dakota's largest city.

Missouri River

South Dakota is bordered by the states of North Dakota (to the north), Minnesota (to the east), Iowa (to the southeast), Nebraska (to the south), Wyoming (to the west) and Montana (to the northwest). The state is bisected by the Missouri River, dividing South Dakota into two geographically and socially distinct halves, known to residents as "East River" and "West River."


The Needles, Black Hills

Eastern South Dakota is home to most of the state's population, and the area's fertile soil is used to grow a variety of crops. West of the Missouri River, ranching is the predominant agricultural activity, and the economy is West River. The Black Hills — a group of low pine-covered mountains sacred to the Sioux — are in the southwest part of the state. Mount Rushmore, a major tourist destination, is there. South Dakota has a temperate continental climate, with four distinct seasons and precipitation ranging from moderate in the east to semi-arid in the west. The state's ecology features species typical of a North American grassland biome.

Mass grave for Lakota dead after Wounded Knee Massacre

Humans have inhabited the area for several millennia, with the Sioux becoming dominant by the early 19th century. In the late 19th century, European-American settlement intensified after a gold rush in the Black Hills and the construction of railroads from the east. Encroaching miners and settlers triggered a number of Indian wars, ending with the Wounded Knee Massacre in 1890. Key events in the 20th century included the Dust Bowl and Great Depression, increased federal spending during the 1940s and 1950s for agriculture and defense and an industrialization of agriculture that has reduced family farming.

While several Democrats have represented South Dakota for multiple terms in both chambers of Congress, the state government is largely controlled by the Republican Party, whose nominees have carried South Dakota in each of the last 13 presidential elections. Historically dominated by an agricultural economy and a rural lifestyle, South Dakota has recently sought to diversify its economy in areas to attract and retain residents. South Dakota's history and rural character still strongly influence the state's culture.

Mount Rushmore in the Black Hills

National parks and monuments South Dakota has several sites administered by the National Park Service. Two national parks have been established in the state, both in its southwestern region. Wind Cave National Park — established in 1903 in the Black Hills — has an extensive cave network and is home to a large herd of bison. Badlands National Park was established in 1978 and features an eroded, brightly colored landscape surrounded by semi-arid grasslands. Mount Rushmore National Memorial in the Black Hills was established in 1925. The sculpture of four U.S. Presidents was carved into the mountainside by sculptor Gutzon Borglum.

Visitors and guide inside Jewel Cave

Other areas managed by the National Park Service include Jewel Cave National Monument near Custer, Lewis and Clark National Historic Trail, Minuteman Missile National Historic Site — which features a decommissioned nuclear missile silo and a separate missile control area several miles away — and the Missouri National Recreational River. The Crazy Horse Memorial is a large mountainside sculpture near Mount Rushmore being built using private funds. The Mammoth Site near Hot Springs is another privately owned attraction in the Black Hills. It is a working paleontological dig and has one of the world's largest concentrations of mammoth remains.

Paleo-Indians, earliest known settlers of the Americas

History Humans have lived in what is today South Dakota for several thousand years. The first inhabitants were Paleoindian hunter-gatherers and disappeared from the area around 5000 BC. Between 500 AD and 800 AD, a semi-nomadic people known as the Mound Builders lived in central and eastern South Dakota. In the 14th century, the Crow Creek Massacre occurred, in which several hundred men, women and children were killed near the Missouri River.

Arikara warrior ca. 1840-1843 by Karl Bodmer


By 1500, the Arikara or Ree had settled in much of the Missouri River valley. European contact with the area began in 1743, when the LaVérendrye brothers explored the region. The LaVérendrye group buried a plate near the site of modern-day Pierre, claiming the region for France as part of greater Louisiana. In 1762 the entire region became part of the Spanish Louisiana until 1802. By the early 19th century, the Sioux had largely replaced the Arikara as the dominant group in the area.



Route of the Lewis and Clark expedition

In 1803, the United States purchased the Louisiana Territory — an area that included most of South Dakota — from Napoleon Bonaparte, and President Thomas Jefferson organized a group commonly referred to as the "Lewis and Clark Expedition" to explore the region. In 1817, an American fur trading post was set up at present-day Fort Pierre, beginning continuous American settlement of the area. In 1855, the U.S. Army bought Fort Pierre but abandoned it in 1857 in favor of Fort Randall to the south. Settlement by Americans and Europeans was by this time increasing rapidly, and in 1858 the Yankton Sioux signed the 1858 Treaty, ceding most of present-day eastern South Dakota to the United States.

Land speculators founded two of eastern South Dakota's largest present-day cities: Sioux Falls in 1856 and Yankton in 1859. In 1861, the Dakota Territory was established by the United States government. It initially included North Dakota, South Dakota and parts of Montana and Wyoming. Settlement of the area — mostly by people from the eastern United States as well as western and northern Europe — increased rapidly, especially after the completion of an eastern railway link to Yankton in 1873.

U.S. cavalry commander George Armstrong Custer

In 1874, gold was discovered in the Black Hills during a military expedition led by George A. Custer, and miners and explorers began illegally entering land promised to the Lakota. Custer's expedition took place despite the fact that the Sioux had been granted the entire western half of present-day South Dakota or West River in 1868 by the Treaty of Laramie as part of the Great Sioux Reservation. The Sioux declined to grant mining rights or land in the Black Hills, and war broke out after the U.S. failed to stop white miners and settlers from entering the region. Eventually the U.S. won and broke up the Great Sioux Reservation into five reservations, settling the Lakota there. In 1980 the Supreme Court and Congress ordered compensation, but the Lakota still refuse to accept it, insisting on return of their land.

President Benjamin Harrison


A growing population and political concerns — admitting two states meant having four new senators for the Republican Party — caused Dakota Territory to be divided in half, and President Benjamin Harrison signed proclamations formally admitting South Dakota and North Dakota to the union on November 2, 1889. Harrison had the papers shuffled to obscure which one was signed first, and the order went unrecorded.





Lakota


On December 29, 1890, the Wounded Knee Massacre occurred on the Pine Ridge Indian Reservation. Commonly cited as the last major armed conflict between the United States and the Lakota Sioux Nation, the massacre resulted in the deaths of at least 146 Sioux, many of them women and children. 31 U.S. soldiers were also killed in the conflict.






A South Dakota farm during the Dust Bowl, 1936

During the 1930s, several economic and climatic conditions combined with disastrous results for South Dakota. A lack of rainfall, extremely high temperatures and inappropriate cultivation techniques produced what was known as the Dust Bowl in South Dakota and several other plains states. Fertile topsoil was blown away in massive dust storms, and several harvests were completely ruined. The experiences of the Dust Bowl — coupled with local bank foreclosures and the general economic effects of the Great Depression — resulted in many South Dakotans leaving the state. The population of South Dakota declined by more than 7% between 1930 and 1940.

Economic stability returned with the U.S. entry into World War II in 1941, when demand for the state's agricultural and industrial products grew as the nation mobilized for war. In 1944, the Pick-Sloan Plan was passed as part of the Flood Control Act of 1944 by the U.S. Congress, resulting in the construction of six large dams on the Missouri River, four of which are at least partially in South Dakota. Flood control, hydroelectricity and recreational opportunities such as boating and fishing are provided by the dams and their reservoirs.

In recent decades, South Dakota has been transformed from a state dominated by agriculture to one with a more diversified economy. The tourism industry has grown considerably since the completion of the interstate system in the 1960s, with the Black Hills becoming more important as a destination. The financial service industry began to grow in the state as well, with Citibank moving its credit card operations from New York to Sioux Falls in 1981, a move that has been followed by several other financial companies. South Dakota was the first state to eliminate caps on interest rates.

Homestake Mine pit in Lead, South Dakota

In 2007, the site of the recently closed Homestake gold mine near Lead was chosen as the location of a new underground research facility, the Deep Underground Science and Engineering Laboratory. Despite a growing state population and recent economic development, many rural areas have been struggling over the past 50 years with locally declining populations and the emigration of educated young adults to larger South Dakota cities, such as Rapid City or Sioux Falls, or to other states. Mechanization and consolidation of agriculture has contributed greatly to the declining number of smaller family farms, and the resulting economic and demographic challenges facing rural towns. However, the state often ranks highly for its way of life, and Gallup's well-being index in 2018 named South Dakota the happiest, healthiest state in the United States.

Abandoned farmhouse in rural South Dakota

Growth and rural flight Over the last several decades, the population in many rural areas has declined in South Dakota, in common with other Great Plains states. The change has been characterized as "rural flight" as family farming has declined. Young people have moved to cities for other employment. This trend has continued in recent years, with 30 of South Dakota's counties losing population between the 1990 and the 2000 census. During that time, nine counties had a population loss of greater than 10%, with Harding county— in the northwest corner of the state — losing nearly 19% of its population. Low birth rates and a lack of younger immigration has caused the median age of many of these counties to increase. In 24 counties, at least 20% of the population is over the age of 65, compared with a national rate of 12.8%. The effect of rural flight has not been spread evenly through South Dakota, however. Although most rural counties and small towns have lost population, the Sioux Falls area, the larger counties along Interstate 29, the Black Hills and many Indian reservations have all gained population. As the reservations have exercised more sovereignty, some Sioux have returned to them from urban areas. Lincoln county near Sioux Falls was the seventh fastest-growing county by percentage in the United States in 2010. The growth in these areas has compensated for losses in the rest of the state. South Dakota's total population continues to increase steadily, albeit at a slower rate than the national average.

Ring-necked pheasant, South Dakota state bird

Ecology Much of South Dakota — except for the Black Hills area — is dominated by a temperate grassland biome. Although grasses and crops cover most of this region, deciduous trees such as cottonwoods, elms and willows are common near rivers and in shelter belts. Mammals in this area include bison, deer, pronghorn, coyotes and prairie dogs. The state bird, the ring-necked pheasant, has adapted well to the area after being introduced from China. Growing populations of bald eagles are spread throughout the state, especially near the Missouri River. Rivers and lakes of the grasslands support populations of walleye, carp, pike, bass and other species. The Missouri River also contains the pre-historic paddlefish.

American pine marten

Due to a higher elevation and level of precipitation, the Black Hills ecology differs significantly from that of the plains. The mountains are thickly blanketed by various types of pines, including ponderosa and lodgepole pines, as well as spruces. Black Hills mammals include deer, elk, bighorn sheep, mountain goats, pine marten and mountain lions, while the streams and lakes contain several species of trout.


Climate South Dakota has a continental climate with four distinct seasons, ranging from cold, dry winters to warm and semi-humid summers. During the summers, the state's average high temperature is often close to 90 °F, although it cools to near 60 °F at night. It is not unusual for South Dakota to have severe hot, dry spells in the summer with the temperature climbing above 100 °F several times a year. Winters are cold with January high temperatures averaging below freezing and low temperatures averaging below 10 °F in most of the state. The highest recorded temperature is 120 °F at Usta on July 15, 2006, and the lowest recorded temperature is −58 °F at McIntosh on February 17, 1936.


Average annual precipitation in South Dakota ranges from semi-arid conditions in the northwestern part of the state (around 15 inches) to semi-humid around the southeast portion of the state (around 25 inches), although a small area centered on Lead in the Black Hills has the highest precipitation at nearly 30 inches per year.


South Dakota summers bring frequent, sometimes severe, thunderstorms with high winds, thunder and hail. The state's eastern part is often considered part of Tornado Alley, and South Dakota experiences an average of 30 tornadoes each year. Severe blizzards and ice storms often occur during winter.

Ellsworth Air Force Base, 2nd largest single employer

Economy The current-dollar gross state product of South Dakota was $39.8 billion as of 2010, the fifth-smallest total state output in the U.S. The per capita personal income was $38,865 in 2010, ranked 25th in the U.S., and 12.5% of the population was below the poverty line in 2008. CNBC's list of "Top States for Business for 2010" has recognized South Dakota as the seventh best state in the nation. In July 2011, the state's unemployment rate was 4.7%. The service industry is the largest economic contributor in South Dakota. This sector includes the retail, finance and health care industries. Citibank, which was the largest bank holding company in the United States at one time, established national banking operations in South Dakota in 1981 to take advantage of favorable banking regulations. Government spending is another important segment of the state's economy, providing over 10% of the gross state product. Ellsworth Air Force Base, near Rapid City, is the second-largest single employer in the state.

Ethanol plant in Turner county

Agriculture has historically been a key component of the South Dakota economy. Although other industries have expanded rapidly in recent decades, agricultural production is still very important to the state's economy, especially in rural areas. The five most valuable agricultural products in South Dakota are cattle, corn, soybeans, wheat and hogs. Agriculture-related industries such as meat packing and ethanol production also have a considerable economic impact on the state. South Dakota is the sixth leading ethanol-producing state in the nation.

Sturgis Motorcycle Rally

Another important sector in South Dakota's economy is tourism. Many travel to view the attractions of the state, particularly those in the Black Hills region, such as historic Deadwood, Mount Rushmore and the nearby state and national parks. One of the largest tourist events in the state is the annual Sturgis Motorcycle Rally. The five-day event drew over 739,000 attendees in 2015; significant considering the state has a total population of 850,000. In 2006, tourism provided an estimated 33,000 jobs in the state and contributed over two billion dollars to the economy of South Dakota.

South Dakota State University in Brookings

Education As of 2006, South Dakota has a total primary and secondary school enrollment of 136,872, with 120,278 of these students being educated in the public school system. There are 703 public schools in 168 school districts, giving South Dakota the highest number of schools per capita in the United States. The current high school graduation rate is 89.9%, and the average ACT score is 21.8, slightly above the national average of 21.1. 89.8% of the adult population has earned at least a high school diploma, and 25.8% has earned a bachelor’s degree or higher. South Dakota's 2008 average public school teacher salary of $36,674 was the lowest in the nation — national average was $52,308. In 2007 South Dakota passed legislation modeled after Montana's Indian Education for All Act of 1999, mandating education about Native American tribal history, culture and heritage in all the schools, from pre-school through college, in an effort to increase knowledge and appreciation about Indian culture among all residents of the state, as well as to reinforce Indian students' understanding of their own cultures' contributions. The South Dakota Board of Regents, whose members are appointed by the governor, controls the six public universities in the state. South Dakota State University in Brookings is the state's largest university, with an enrollment of 12,831. The University of South Dakota in Vermillion is the state's oldest university and has South Dakota's only law school and medical school. South Dakota also has several private universities, the largest of which is Augustana University in Sioux Falls.

Tunnel along George S. Mickelson Trail in the Black Hills

Recreation Fishing and hunting are popular outdoor activities in South Dakota. Fishing contributes over $224 million to South Dakota's economy, and hunting contributes over $303 million. In 2007, over 275,000 hunting licenses and 175,000 fishing licenses were sold in the state; around half of the hunting licenses and over two-thirds of the fishing licenses were purchased by South Dakotans. Popular species of game include pheasants, white-tailed deer, mule deer and turkeys, as well as waterfowl such as Canada geese, snow geese and mallards. Targets of anglers include walleye in the eastern glacial lakes and Missouri River reservoirs, Chinook salmon in Lake Oahe and trout in the Black Hills. Other sports, such as cycling and running, are also popular in the state. In 1991, the state opened the George S. Mickelson Trail, a 109-mile rail trail in the Black Hills. Besides being used by cyclists, the trail is also the site of a portion of the annual Mount Rushmore marathon; the marathon's entire course is at an elevation of over 4,000 feet. Other events in the state include the Tour de Kota, a 478-mile, six-day cycling event that covers much of eastern and central South Dakota and the annual Sturgis Motorcycle Rally, which draws hundreds of thousands of participants from around the United States.

American bison at Custer State Park

Culture South Dakota's culture reflects the state's American Indian, rural, Western and European roots. A number of annual events celebrating the state's ethnic and historical heritage take place around the state, such as Days of '76 in Deadwood, Czech Days in Tabor and the annual St. Patrick’s Day and Cinco de Mayo festivities in Sioux Falls. The various tribes hold many annual pow wows at their reservations throughout the state; non-Native Americans are sometimes invited. Custer State Park holds an annual Buffalo Roundup, in which volunteers on horseback gather the park's herd of around 1,500 bison.

Nicholas Black Elk with his family, c. 1910


Black Elk (Lakota) was a medicine man and heyokha — a kind of sacred clown in the culture of the Sioux (Lakota and Dakota people) — whose life spanned the transition to reservations. His accounts of the 19th-century Indian Wars and Ghost Dance movement, and his deep thoughts on personal visions and Native American religion form the basis of the book “Black Elk Speaks,” first published in 1932. Among several editions, a premier annotated edition was published in 2008. Paul Goble, an award-winning children's book author and illustrator, was based in the Black Hills from 1977.





American writer Laura Ingalls Wilder, circa 1885

Laura Ingalls Wilder, whose semi-autobiographical books are based on her experiences as a child and young adult on the frontier, is one of South Dakota's best-known writers. She drew from her life growing up on a homestead near De Smet as the basis for five of her novels: “By the Shores of Silver Lake,” “The Long Winter,” “Little Town on the Prairie,” “These Happy Golden Years” and “he First Four Years.” These gained renewed popularity in the United States when “Little House on the Prairie” was adapted and produced as a television series in 1974. Wilder's daughter, Rose Wilder Lane, who became a well-known writer in her own right, was born near De Smet in 1886.



"The Prairie is My Garden" by Harvey Dunn

South Dakota has also produced several notable artists. Harvey Dunn grew up on a homestead near Manchester in the late 19th century. While Dunn worked most of his career as a commercial illustrator, his most famous works showed various scenes of frontier life; he completed these near the end of his career. Oscar Howe, a Crow, was born on the Crow Creek Indian Reservation and won fame for his watercolor paintings. He was one of the first Native American painters to adopt techniques and style heavily influenced by the mid-20th century abstraction movement, rather than relying on traditional Native American styles. Terry Redlin, originally from Watertown, was an accomplished painter of rural and wildlife scenes. Many of his works are on display at the Redlin Art Center in Watertown.

State symbols State bird: Ring-necked pheasant State flower: American pasque flower State tree: Black Hills spruce State nicknames: Mount Rushmore State (official), Coyote state and Sunshine state (both unofficial) State motto: "Under God, the people rule" State slogan: "Great Faces. Great Places." State mineral: Rose quartz State insect: Honey bee State animal: Coyote State fish: Walleye State gemstone: Fairburn agate agate State song: "Hail, South Dakota"








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