I walk by a store for fur sales and storage. You don’t see too many of these in Dallas because it rarely gets cold enough to wear heavy furs. I have never owned a real fur coat but tried on a friend’s mink coat once and at an estate sale, tried on a sable coat. The sable felt very luxurious, like diving into a pile of thick velvet pillows. Real fur coats don’t seem very practical. They are only to be used for special occasions. Reminds me of years ago when I bought a used Lexus sedan. The owner told me he and his wife both had cars and only used the Lexus to attend the symphony. I prefer faux fur myself. It’s much less expensive, more practical and just as soft. Plus, it’s better for animal rights.
According to Wikipedia, fur clothing is clothing made of furry animal hides. Fur is one of the oldest forms of clothing and is thought to have been widely used as hominids first expanded outside Africa. Some view fur as luxurious and warm; others reject it due to moral concerns for animal rights. The term “fur” is often used to refer to a coat, wrap or shawl made from the fur of animals. Controversy exists regarding the wearing of fur coats, due to animal cruelty concerns. The most popular kinds of fur in the 1960s —known as the luxury fur — were blond mink, silver striped fox and red fox. Cheaper alternatives were pelts of wolf, Persian lamb or muskrat. It was common for ladies to wear a matching hat. In the 1950s, a must-have type of fur was the mutation fur — naturally nuanced colors — and fur trimmings on a coat that were beaver, lamb fur, Astrakhan and mink.
History
Fur is generally thought to have been among the first materials used for clothing and bodily decoration. The exact date when fur was first used in clothing is debated. It is known that several species of hominoids including Homo sapiens and Homo neanderthalensis used fur clothing.
Fur clothing predates written history and has been recovered from various archaeological sites worldwide. Crown proclamations known as "sumptuary legislation" were issued in England limiting the wearing of certain furs to the higher social statuses, thereby establishing a cachet based on exclusivity. Furs such as marten, grey squirrel and ermine were reserved for the aristocracy, while fox, hare and beaver clothed the middle, and goat, wolf and sheepskin the lower. Fur was primarily used for visible linings, with species varied by season within social classes. Furbearing animals decreased in Western Europe and began to be imported from the Middle East and Russia.
As new kinds of fur entered Europe, other uses were made with fur other than clothing. Beaver was most desired but used to make hats which became a popular headpiece especially during wartime. Swedish soldiers wore broad-brimmed hats made exclusively from beaver felt. Due to the limitations of beaver fur, hat-makers relied heavily on North America for imports as beaver was only available in the Scandinavian peninsula.
Other than the military, fur has been used for accessories such as hats, hoods, scarves and muffs. Design elements including the visuals of the animal were considered acceptable with heads, tails and paws still being kept on the accessories. During the 19th century, seal and karakul were made into indoor jackets. The 20th century was the beginning of the fur coats being fashionable in Western Europe with full fur coats. With lifestyle changes as a result of developments like indoor heating, the international textile trade affected how fur was distributed around the world. Europeans focused on using local resources, giving fur association with femininity with the increasing use of mink. In 1970, Germany was the world's largest fur market. The International Fur Trade Federation banned endangering species furs like silk monkey, ocelot, leopard, tiger and polar bear in 1975. The use of animal skins were brought to light during the 1980s by animal right organizations and the demand for fur decreased. Anti-fur organizations raised awareness of the controversy between animal welfare and fashion. Fur farming became banned in Britain in 1999. During the 21st century, fox and mink have been bred in captivity with Denmark, Holland and Finland being leaders of mink production.
Fur is still worn in most mild and cool climates around the world due to its warmth and durability. From the days of early European settlement, up until the development of modern clothing alternatives, fur clothing was popular in Canada during the cold winters. The invention of inexpensive synthetic textiles for insulating clothing led to fur clothing falling out of fashion.
Fur is still used by indigenous people and developed societies, due to its availability and superior insulation properties. The Inuit peoples of the Arctic relied on fur for most of their clothing, and it also forms a part of traditional clothing in Russia, Ukraine, the former Yugoslavia, Scandinavia and Japan.
It is also sometimes associated with glamor and lavish spending. A number of consumers and designers — notably British fashion designer and outspoken animal rights activist Stella McCartney — reject fur due to moral beliefs and cruelty to animals.
Animal furs used in garments and trim may be dyed bright colors or with patterns, often to mimic exotic animal pelts: alternatively, they may be left their original pattern and color. Fur may be shorn down to imitate the feel of velvet, creating a fabric called shearing.
The introduction of alternatives in the early 20th century brought tension to the clothing industry as faux fur manufacturers started producing faux fur and capitalizing on the profits. By the 1950s, synthetic fur garments had become popular and affordable. Newspapers were writing articles on major chemical companies trying to outdo each other in the quest to create the most realistic fake fur.
The popularity of natural fur has gone up and down in recent years. Vogue Paris published a homage to fur in August 2017 and later Gucci followed the idea of not using animal fur. Other high-end brands to follow this lead are Stella McCartney, Givenchy, Calvin Klein, Ralph Lauren, Michael Kors, Philosophy di Lorenzo Serafini. Burberry announced it would stop sending models with fur on runways but did not stop selling it in stores. There are many companies coming up with more sustainable ways of producing leather and fur. Designer Ingar Helgason is developing Bio fur which grows synthetic pelts the way that Modern Meadow has been able to produce grown leather and Diamond foundry created lab-grown diamonds. The Business of Fashion fur debate hosted by Zilberkweit director of the British Fur Association argued that natural fur was more sustainable. Others said that chemical processes needed to treat animals’ fur in order to be worn are just as detrimental to the environment.
Heritage fashion houses such as Hermès, Dior and Chanel still use natural fur. Alex Mcintosh, who leads the Fashion Futures post grad program at London College of Fashion, says “Change on this level would only be driven by a genuine lack of demand and not just social media outcry.”
Sources
Common animal sources for fur clothing and fur trimmed accessories include fox, rabbit, mink, raccoon dogs, muskrat, beaver, stoat (ermine), otter, sable, seals, coyotes, wolves, chinchilla, opossum and common brushtail possum. Some of these are more highly prized than others, and there are many grades and colors.
The import and sale of seal products was banned in the U.S. in 1972 over conservation concerns about Canadian seals. The import and sale is still banned even though the Marine Animal Response Society estimates the harp seal population is thriving at approximately 8 million. The import, export and sales of domesticated cat and dog fur were also banned in the U.S. under the Dog and Cat Protection Act of 2000.
Most of the fur sold by high fashion retailers globally is from farmed animals such as mink, foxes and rabbits. Cruel methods of killing have made people more aware as the animal rights activists work harder to protect the animals. The recommendations in 2001 of the European Commission's Scientific Committee on Animal Health and Animal Welfare state correspondingly: ‘In comparison with other farm animals, species farmed for their fur have been subjected to relatively little active selection except with respect to fur characteristics.”
Processing of fur
The manufacturing of fur clothing involves obtaining animal pelts where the hair is left on. Depending on the type of fur and its purpose, some of the chemicals involved in fur processing may include table salts, alum salts, acids, soda ash, sawdust, cornstarch, lanolin, degreasers and, less commonly, bleaches, dyes and toners for dyed fur. Workers exposed to fur dust created during fur processing have been shown to have reduced pulmonary function in direct proportion to their length of exposure.
The use of wool involves shearing the animal's fleece from the living animal, so that the wool can be regrown but sheepskin shearling is made by retaining the fleece to the leather and shearing it. Shearling is used for boots, jackets and coats.
Leather made from any animal hide involves removing the fur from the skin and using only the tanned skin. The use of wool involves shearing the animal's hair from the living animal. Fake fur or "faux fur" designates any synthetic material that attempts to mimic the appearance and feel of real fur.
The chemical treatment of fur to increase its felting quality is known as carroting, as the process tends to turn the tips of the fur orange. A furrier is a person who makes fur products such as fur garments, fur blankets etc. and repairs, alters, cleans or otherwise deals in furs of animals.
The process of fur manufacturing includes waterways pumping waste and toxic chemicals into the surrounding environment. On the other hand, fur is naturally biodegradable, whereas faux fur is not.
Anti-fur campaigns
Anti-fur campaigns were popularized the 1980s and 1990s, with the participation of numerous celebrities. Fur clothing has become the focus of boycotts due to the opinion that it is cruel and unnecessary. PETA and other animal rights organizations, celebrities and animal rights ethicists have called attention to fur farming.
Animal rights advocates object to the trapping and killing of wildlife, and to the confinement and killing of animals on fur farms due to concerns about the animals suffering and death. They may also condemn "alternatives" made from synthetic — oil-based — clothing as they promote fur for the sake of fashion. Protests also include objection to the use of leather in clothing, shoes and accessories.
Some animal rights activists have disrupted fur fashion shows with protests, while other anti-fur protesters may use fashion shows featuring faux furs or other alternatives to fur clothing as a platform to highlight animal suffering from the use of real leathers and furs. These groups sponsor "Compassionate Fashion Day" on the third Saturday of August to promote their anti-fur message. Some American groups participate in "Fur Free Friday," an event held annually on the Friday after Thanksgiving that uses displays, protests and other methods to highlight their beliefs regarding furs.
In Canada, opposition to the annual seal hunt is viewed as an anti-fur issue, although the Humane Society of the United States claims that its opposition is to "the largest slaughter of marine mammals on Earth." International Fund for Animal Welfare — an anti-sealing group — claims that Canada has an "abysmal record of enforcement" of anti-cruelty laws surrounding the hunt. A Canadian government survey indicated that two-thirds of Canadians supported the hunting of seals if the regulations under Canadian law were followed.
Main types of fur
Beaver
According to the Sept. 30, 2016 article “The 9 Types of Fur You Need to Know About” at Yudofsky Fur & Leather, the beaver is one of the warmest furs you can buy. Its durability is astounding — it can last for decades. There are three main types of beaver garments: plucked, sheared and natural. Plucked and sheared beaver reveal the thick underfur that is the source of warmth. It also provides a classy style, while natural fur tends to look more rugged and masculine.
You can find a beaver jacket in the price range of $2,000-$6,000. Due to its extreme warmth, it is perfect for a frigid destination, as well as an everyday coat.
Chinchilla
Chinchilla is one of the most expensive furs you can buy. This is because of the amazing quality of fur. It is dense while simultaneously being lightweight, soft and silky. Chinchilla is the perfect fur for a special occasion because it provides a flashy, classic look.
You can find a chinchilla jacket anywhere from $6,000 and up. This luxurious fur is perfect for weddings and theatre adventures. It can also be flashy and trendy. You will want to take particular care if you own a garment made of chinchilla. It will need to be cleaned and stored every year, regardless of use. This is because the hair can be fragile and needs proper attention.
Coyote
Coyote — much like beaver — is durable. The dense, long-haired fur is often pale gray or tan in color. Coyote is more popular now than it ever has been due to the warmth it provides while providing a sporty look. The dense fur provides great quality for accessories such as hats and blankets as well as coats.
You can find a coyote jacket anywhere from $2,000-$10,000. It is a warm garment, making it perfect for any sort of cold destination trip.
Fox
Fox is an affordable option with the added benefit of the color possibilities. Fox has the widest range of natural colors — except for mink — because it can be silver, cross, crystal, blue, red, gray and white. These colors themselves can be dyed to make virtually any desired color. Fox is used for wonderful accessory pieces such as collars, cuffs, wraps and stoles. When choosing fox, look for long, silky guard hairs and a soft, dense underfur.
Fox is one of the best types of fur because it is perfect for nearly every occasion. It is warm and classic, but, depending on the dye, can be trendy as well.
Lamb
Lamb furs encompass a wide variety of weight, textures and prices. There are several different types of lamb fur you can purchase. The different types are: broadtail, Mongolian, Persian, shearling and swakara.
A broadtail fur is naturally a flat morie pattern. Some of the natural colors include brown, clack and gray, but this type of fur is often dyed. Typically, you can find a jacket in the $2,000-$6,000 price range.
Mongolian fur is long and wavy, with silky guard hairs. The natural color is off-white, but this, too, is often dyed. Typical jackets are priced around $2,000.
Persian lamb features flat, silky curls with natural colors of black, brown and gray. Typically, you can find a jacket from $2,000-$6,000.
Shearlings are natural lamb pelts with the leather side sueded or leatherized. They are commonly reversible, adding to the versatility of the garment. Jackets typically range around $2,000.
Swakara lamb is the most expensive. It ranges between $6,000-$10,000. The reason for the price is due to the distinctive pattern of compact curves and swirls in the fur. It is lustrous and can come in a wide range of natural colors. Swakara is also known as karakul in different parts of the world.
Lynx
There are three types of lynx: U.S., Canadian and Russian. Each type of lynx is beautiful and lightweight.
The U.S. lynx is called cat lynx. It is the least expensive at $2,000-$6,000. It is also lightweight and trendy.
Canadian lynx is often soft, silky fur with stunning markings. It is typically displaced creamy white tones with characteristically darker markings. This has made lynx one of the most desired furs in recent years. Typically, you can find this type of lynx from $2,000-$6,000.
Russian lynx is the whitest and softest of the three types. The fur is long-haired with subtle beige markings. With the Russian lynx, the whiter the fur, the more expensive the garment. This lynx typically costs $15,000 and up.
As seen above, lynx varies on price depending on the source of the fur. Each type of lynx is perfect for a destination trip because it is warm, as well as trendy.
Mink
Mink is one of the most popular furs in the world. It is extremely versatile and can come in a wide range of styles — casual to dressy to sporty, and nearly everything between. The guard hairs shine with an unmistakable luster and the underfur should be lush and soft. Mink fur has an excellent value and durability record. Mink can be dyed nearly any color, allowing you to determine the shade.
Mink jackets range in price from $2,000 to $15,000, depending on the quality of fur. Mink garments are commonly worn to weddings and the theatre but are also used as everyday outerwear. Mink jackets can be warm as well as classic, and they are enjoyed by men and women alike.
Rabbit
Rabbit is wonderful because of the option of colors. It comes in a wide range of natural colors and it can be dyed nearly any desired color. The fur is silky with medium-length guard hairs. With rabbit, you have the choice of shearing, grooving and natural fur types. This fur is warm and soft and perfect for coats, jackets, vests and hats.
Rabbit is one of the least expensive furs you can buy. Typically, you can find a rabbit jacket for under $2,000. It is wonderful for a wedding and can be flashy and trendy depending on the color of the garment. Rabbit furs are typically enjoyed by women.
Sable
Sable is one of the rarest and most expensive furs. There are two different types: Russian and Canadian.
Russian sable is brown with a silver cast. They are long-haired furs and lightweight, making it one of the most expensive types of fur. You can find sable at the price of $15,000 and up.
Canadian golden sable comes in amber tones. It is less expensive than the Russian sable, but it is equally as stunning. Typically, you can find this type of sable from $10,000-$15,000.
Both types of sable are wonderful for weddings. Sable garments are flashy and trendy and are most often enjoyed by women.
Most expensive fur coats in the world
Sable
According to the May 29, 2016 article “The Most Expensive Fur Coat Ever Made” in Haute Acorn, in 2015 Karl Lagerfeld celebrated his 50 years of designing for Fendi with an absolutely brilliant haute couture show — for the record it was dubbed by him ”Haute Furroure” — and exposed his extravagant creations on the catwalk. In this show, there were 36 brilliant fur pieces made by pure luxury materials, among them mink, chinchilla and sable. The talented designer also featured one of the most expensive pieces of clothing ever made, a full-length sable fur coat that cost $1.2 million!
According to The Independent, every single follicle on this floor-length sable overcoat is coated in pure silver, “giving a unique and contemporary luminous metallic effect to the fur while maintaining its softness.”
“I remember 30 years ago, we made a finale with 20 sable coats,” Lagerfeld said. “If you want to do that today, you’re lucky if you can make one or two or three because most of the animals are not hunted anymore. It’s quite difficult to do high fashion because everything made in the past hardly exists anymore, so we have to invent unbelievable techniques and mix them with feathers and other things like that because the world has changed. We are not in the 80s anymore.”
The sable is a cousin of mink, but its fur surpasses all others in silky density and luminous colors. A carnivore of northern countries, the sable feeds on mice and even squirrels and prefers to hunt at night. The most exquisite specimens of sable are still found only in the Russian wild. The sable as an animal may be a cousin of mink and looks like a mink but when we talk about coats the semblance of a sable coat is similar with a fox fur coat, as it is almost as fluffy as a fox fur but more elegant, with higher density and softer!
”This sable has such a special energy and mystery in addition to being so light and warm and sexy that it is no wonder that a century ago there was a law that only the czar and his family could wear this sable,” said Helen Yarmak about the sables that live in the Barguzin region.
One single pelt can cost from $150 to $350, and 50-60 sables are required to make one full-length coat, so coats can range in price from $7,500 to $21,000.
Lynx
According to the Jan. 17, 2019 article “The Most Expensive Real Fur Coats” in Haute Acorn, lynx fur is very unique in color and pattern in that it is a variety of natural tones that vary from beige-white to gold to medium and dark browns and the pattern is normally clustered and spotted. The belly of a Lynx is totally white with some black dots, some coats are made only with fur from the belly of the lynx pelt, for that reason they are totally white but also very expensive! A full belly lynx coat can cost from $30,000 to $100,000!
Chinchilla
Recognized for its glamorous slate blue-gray color, chinchilla is about as prestigious as it gets. It’s extremely lightweight yet bears the highest hair density of any animal. Chinchillas tend to grow over 20,000 hairs per square centimeter. No other fur is softer or warmer or looks more lavish. Chinchilla is difficult to work with — one of the reasons it’s so expensive — and requires a lot of care. Prices range from $10,000 to $100,000.
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